SPINNING, DYEING, WEAVING AND KNITTING
Today, Shetland is probably better known for its knitwear than for any other
craft product. However, the use of wool for the making of knitted or woven
goods such as socks, shawls or rugs would have been a part of daily routine
in every household from very early times.
Later, trade in such items became
a central part of the Shetland economy and, during the long winter evenings,
the characteristic sound in every croft house was that of the rattle of
knitting needles.
Indeed, knitters would take their work with them if they went visiting
neighbours, or to some community event. The exceptional quality of Shetland
knitwear derives from the very fine wool
of the small Shetland sheep. Traditionally, the finest wool would be plucked
- or rooed - from the sheep. It came away very easily and the process
apparently caused no pain or injury to the animal.
The wool would be teased
out (carded) ready for spinning. The spun wool would be extraordinarily
light and fine, suitable for knitting into the cobweb-like shawls - capable
of being drawn through a wedding ring - for which Shetland is renowned.
Natural dyes were used, based on materials such as lichen, madder,
onionskin, seaweed or indigo. Until relatively recent times, the rewards for
knitting or weaving were meagre and, under a truck, or barter, system,
knitwear merchants would pay in goods of their choice rather than in cash.
Only during the last century did knitters begin to be paid more realistic
rates as their work was recognised for its superb quality and began to be
properly marketed around the world. Unfortunately though, the term
`Shetland' is no guarantee that the wool came from Shetland or that the
garment was knitted in the islands. Only those items bearing the `Real
Shetland Knitwear' trademark are authentic local products.
Today, it's possible to buy a range of high quality knitwear that is not
only fashionable but draws on the unique skills of Shetland producers handed
down over generations. Other items, such as natural sheepskins and taatit
rugs, are also available.
Traditionally, a taatit rug was made in two
halves, one by the bride's mother and one by the groom's. The two halves
were sewn together and presented to the couple on the eve of their wedding.