The village of
Haroldswick, a couple of miles north of Baltasound, is home to the Unst
Boat Haven - a unique collection of traditional Shetland fishing craft and
the fascinating Unst Heritage Centre, where the permanent displays include
geology, geneaology and the island's famous fine lace knitting and
spinning. Both centres are open daily, 2.00pm to 5.00pm, May to September.
Next door to the boat
haven, the Haroldswick shop has a do-it-yourself cafe, while just around
the corner you can have your postcards franked at Britain's most northerly
post office. On the eastern side of the village, Britain's only working
talc mine is at Clibberswick, known also for its Viking soapstone quarry.
North-east of
Haroldswick, a single-track road leads to the beach and dunes of Norwick
and on to Britain's northernmost inhabited house, at Skaw. On the nearby
head land of Lamba Ness are the ruins of a wartime radar station,
forerunner of modern RAF scanners up on Saxa Vord, Unst's highest hill.
Saxa Vord looks out over the fjord of Burrafirth, the stacks of Muckle
Flugga Lighthouse and the Out Stack - the full stop at the end of Britain.
The side road from
Haroldswick to Burrafirth opens a panorama of dramatic cliffs, the wide,
sandy links at the head of the inlet, and the dark waters of the Loch of
Cliff The SNH visitor centre based in the lighthouse shore station at
Burrafirth provides a great opportunity for the who are unable to make the
walk to the cliffs to learn about the seabirds of Hermaness. The
world-famous reserve covers the Muckle Flugga rocks and Out Stack as well
as the seabird cliffs and moorland of Hermaness.
It is home to over
100,000 seabirds in the breeding season. Haroldswick is also a good place
to watch for seals and otters, particularly at low tide. The view of
Muckle Flugga and the ocean from Hermaness is breathtaking. The
lighthouse, now unmanned and remotely-controlled, was built by Robert
Louis Stevenson's father, Thomas, in 1857-8. The map in Treasure Island
closely resembles a map of Unst which the writer saw on his visit to the
island in 1869.