A couple of miles
north of Billister, the crofting township of Laxo lies on either side of
the Laxo Burn, a famous beat for sea trout. From Laxo the roll on/rolloff
ferry sails for Whalsay. In strong south easterly winds the ferry berths
at the village of Vidlin, terminal for the Out Skerries ferry.
Vidlin lies on Vidlin Voe, a sheltered inlet with a marina for local
boats at its head. This settlement has an Iron Age broch buried beside the
present Methodist kirk. In the days before roads, when most cargo and
passengers travelled by sea, the headland of Lunna was at the centre of
Shetland commerce.
Vessels sailing to Lerwick from the North Isles and the Westside would
call at the natural harbour of West Lunna Voe, overlooked by Lunna House,
the 17th century mansion of the Hunter family. Nearby is a watchtower
built by the lairds to spy on tenants fishing offshore and also to watch
out for the Customs. The Hunters, like most Shetland landowners, were
smugglers.
The
present church is the oldest still used in Shetland, built in 1753 on the
site of an earlier Mausoleum. Two inscribed slabs from the Hunters of
Lunna's Tomb were built into the porch of the church.
Lunna is famous as a secret wartime base for the little fishing boats
which smuggled spies, saboteurs, radios, ammunition and explosives into
Nazi occupied Norway and brought back refugees from the Gestapo. The story
of these heroic and terrifying voyages, in midwinter darkness, storms and
often under enemy fire, is told in 'The Shetland Bus' by David Howarth,
the British naval officer who ran the operation from Lunna House.
North of Lunna lies wild and wonderful walking country Lunna Ness,
studded with the ruins of croft houses front the Clearances in the 19th
century. The area teems with wildlife: in summer there is a constant
stream of seabirds passing the headland while migrant birds alight here in
spring and autumn. A thriving but elusive otter population has made part
of Lunna Ness a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).
Much easier to see
are common and grey seals (selkies) hauled out at colonies on the skerries
between the ness and Lunna Holm and at the Skerry of Lunning. Not far away
are the lonely Loch of Stofast and the mysterious Stanes of Stofast a
2,000 tonne `glacial erratic' boulder split in two by frost. Like the
nearby Lunning peninsula, this is a heavily glaciated landscape with
eerily shaped rocks associated with the Trows (trolls) of Shetland
folklore.